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Small / cheap / worthwhile bass amp please?

Question:

That  a very nice amp, but for bedroom practice, in my sons bedroom anyway, just a tad too big and tooooo powerful. I need to sleep  ;-) Maybe next christmas, if he ever gets out to gig. toad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – .> > Do your son a favor and buy him an amp of at least 50 watts and with as big > a speaker and enclosure as possible. Frankly, a 12" speaker is as small as I > would consider with a minimum power of 50 watts. The Behringer BX600 fills > the bill perfectly and is not very expensive. > Ed Cregger

Response:

and a review of the after eight from Ashdown http://www.bgra.net/2004/review.php?id=301&type=combo if the behringer is too big=loud toad

Response:

(snip) >I hear it has good sound, and although only 15watts, you can use it all, > >>not just half of it like other amps..

(snip) While running full tilt may sound good for some guitar amps, it does not work the same way with bass amps. Bass signals need to be amplified with purity and plenty of headroom in order to sound good. Guitars, generally, do not. As most folks have heard before, human hearing and its perception of sound is not a linear matter. Bass frequencies need more energy in order to have the same apparent volume as guitar and other instruments of higher average pitch. Small speakers cannot move enough air for the human ear to hear really low frequencies. This is why most practice bass amps sound trebly. Bass frequencies need to be much more powerful in order to have the same apparent loudness as higher frequencies. Do your son a favor and buy him an amp of at least 50 watts and with as big a speaker and enclosure as possible. Frankly, a 12" speaker is as small as I would consider with a minimum power of 50 watts. The Behringer BX600 fills the bill perfectly and is not very expensive. Ed Cregger

Response:

a review of the Behringer here http://www.bgra.net/reviews/behringer-bx600-1-rvw.html Looks great if its not too big. toad

Response:

>In the same boat myself. Son needs a new amp, and gone for the Ashdown After

Hmm.. *looks* ok .. >No idea about the others as I dont play bass myself >http://www.academyofsound.com/aosdevshop/pages/shop_description.asp?p… >best price I could find.  

Eminence Delta 12LF in Guitar Amp

Question:

I’d like to get a big bottom end on my guitar amp for a deep sound with my guitar.  Has anyone tried an Eminence Delta 12LF in a guitar cabinet? My amp is a smallish Pignose Tube amp (the GC60vr) with about 50 -60 watts of power and an open back.  Will the 12LF sound floppy in this amp? Thanks, Neil

Response:

> I’d like to get a big bottom end on my guitar amp for a deep sound > with my guitar.  Has anyone tried an Eminence Delta 12LF in a guitar > cabinet? > My amp is a smallish Pignose Tube amp (the GC60vr) with about 50 -60 > watts of power and an open back.  Will the 12LF sound floppy in this > amp? > Thanks, > Neil

The LF is a *woofer*.  Just get the regular Delta 12, which is a killer speaker if you want to play clean.  It’ll take anything that G60 can dish out forever. Lord Valve American

Response:

You ought to try playing bass guitar through it! @ 3.2 Cubic feet it’s a disturbingly low driver for 4 strings. cb

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’d like to get a big bottom end on my guitar amp for a deep sound > with my guitar.  Has anyone tried an Eminence Delta 12LF in a guitar > cabinet? > My amp is a smallish Pignose Tube amp (the GC60vr) with about 50 -60 > watts of power and an open back.  Will the 12LF sound floppy in this > amp? > Thanks, > Neil

Response:

running a bass guitar though PA.

Question:

I had a Peavey TNT when I started playing, and I never liked its sound, so I would not reccomend it. I’ve got a small Ampeg combo that sounds much better (Ampeg B3, 150 Watts), and I’ve tried Fenders that sound quite good (not as much as an Ampeg, of course). I would reccomend to buy a small combo from Ampeg, Fender, or Trace Elliot (a friend of mine was very happy with one called Commando or something like that, manufactured by Trace Elliot, I think). – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I find all the lower watage/inexpensive bass amps sound horrible. The > Fender Bassman 25 is one we’re currently considering. But what I’d > really like to do is run the bass direct into an effects unit like the > Bass POD or ZOOM 506II and then out to a small PA system. > If you’re thinking you can get a PA setup for LESS than a small bass amp > that will sound better, forget it. The requirements for power and > speaker size for bass don’t change just because it’s running through a > PA. > Are you looking at new amps? For the cost of that Bassman 25 you could > buy a used Peavey amp like a Combo or TNT that would do the job. > — >                                                    Brian Rost >                                                   Stargen, Inc.

Response:

> I fried a guys Yamaha monitor that way once. He invited me to an > impromptu musicians jam night thing and told me not to bother to bring > my amp he’d just run me through the P.A. He kept turning me up because > everyone was complaining they couldn’t hear the Bass on stage. I > wouldn’t advise it.

I agree.  Unless it’s a mostly acoustic jam at a low volume or you have a big time PA system, it’s best to use a bass amp.  In my old band when we played live everything went through the PA (our amps were just for stage volume), but our PA consisted of two 2000 watt QSC amps and speaker stacks with 2×15 lows and 2×12 + horn for highs.  At a small impromptu jam with electric guitar and drums, it’s best to carry your own amplification. Joe.

Response:

Could a "DI" unit of some sort be used to go into a low power PA setup? Perhaps a Line-6 Bass Pod?  I’ve been thinking about buying a $1500 – $2000 dollar low power multi-purpose setup. Something like a Mackie PPM808s or one of the lower powered Carvin units.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I fried a guys Yamaha monitor that way once. He invited me to an > impromptu musicians jam night thing and told me not to bother to bring > my amp he’d just run me through the P.A. He kept turning me up because > everyone was complaining they couldn’t hear the Bass on stage. I > wouldn’t advise it. > I agree.  Unless it’s a mostly acoustic jam at a low volume or you have a > big time PA system, it’s best to use a bass amp.  In my old band when we > played live everything went through the PA (our amps were just for stage > volume), but our PA consisted of two 2000 watt QSC amps and speaker stacks > with 2×15 lows and 2×12 + horn for highs.  At a small impromptu jam with > electric guitar and drums, it’s best to carry your own amplification. > Joe.

Response:

I fried a guys Yamaha monitor that way once. He invited me to an impromptu musicians jam night thing and told me not to bother to bring my amp he’d just run me through the P.A. He kept turning me up because everyone was complaining they couldn’t hear the Bass on stage. I wouldn’t advise it.

Response:

My wife is taking up the bass guitar. I have been playing guitar for many years and we have many friends who play and sing. I bought her a very inexpensive starter bass guitar (Fender Squire) and I’ve been running it direct into my TASCAM porta-studio which is outputing stereo single to my JVC 500-watt stereo reciever (with subwoofer attached). The sound we get is good, but for playing with friends and being able to be heard over a drummer, we’re looking at options. I find all the lower watage/inexpensive bass amps sound horrible. The Fender Bassman 25 is one we’re currently considering. But what I’d really like to do is run the bass direct into an effects unit like the Bass POD or ZOOM 506II and then out to a small PA system. What I’d like to know is what the requirements on the PA would be? Do I have to have a sub-woofer on the PA system? Will it sound as bad as the low-watt bassa mps? My wife likes the small portable Fender PA systems, but the units are so small I don’t have much faith in it’s sound. Is there any chance of blowing out the PA? Thanks.

Response:

i ran a bass through a pa without any subwoofers. direct from a GK 800RB. sounded good but not as good as the EDEN2×12 we were using at the time. Sam

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My wife is taking up the bass guitar. I have been playing guitar for > many years and we have many friends who play and sing. I bought her a > very inexpensive starter bass guitar (Fender Squire) and I’ve been > running it direct into my TASCAM porta-studio which is outputing > stereo single to my JVC 500-watt stereo reciever (with subwoofer > attached). The sound we get is good, but for playing with friends and > being able to be heard over a drummer, we’re looking at options. > I find all the lower watage/inexpensive bass amps sound horrible. The > Fender Bassman 25 is one we’re currently considering. But what I’d > really like to do is run the bass direct into an effects unit like the > Bass POD or ZOOM 506II and then out to a small PA system. > What I’d like to know is what the requirements on the PA would be? Do > I have to have a sub-woofer on the PA system? Will it sound as bad as > the low-watt bassa mps? My wife likes the small portable Fender PA > systems, but the units are so small I don’t have much faith in it’s > sound. Is there any chance of blowing out the PA? > Thanks.

Response:

I’ve had issues running bass through small PA’s in the past, even in small living room jam type sessions… take a look at your local music store for some smaller used amps… If you have about $260, I just tired the new Hartke 60-watt 12" combo, and was pretty well flabbergasted at how good it sounded.  I’m picking up a small amp for home practice use, and was amazed at it’s sound… Wouldn’t compare it to the two Eden 4×10’s I play at rehearsals, but it seemed to sound good in the store. Anyone have any thoughts about that new Hartke combo?  It wasn’t the Kickback series… paper cone woofer. Good luck, Jeremy! Corey

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My wife is taking up the bass guitar. I have been playing guitar for > many years and we have many friends who play and sing. I bought her a > very inexpensive starter bass guitar (Fender Squire) and I’ve been > running it direct into my TASCAM porta-studio which is outputing > stereo single to my JVC 500-watt stereo reciever (with subwoofer > attached). The sound we get is good, but for playing with friends and > being able to be heard over a drummer, we’re looking at options. > I find all the lower watage/inexpensive bass amps sound horrible. The > Fender Bassman 25 is one we’re currently considering. But what I’d > really like to do is run the bass direct into an effects unit like the > Bass POD or ZOOM 506II and then out to a small PA system. > What I’d like to know is what the requirements on the PA would be? Do > I have to have a sub-woofer on the PA system? Will it sound as bad as > the low-watt bassa mps? My wife likes the small portable Fender PA > systems, but the units are so small I don’t have much faith in it’s > sound. Is there any chance of blowing out the PA? > Thanks.

Response:

> I find all the lower watage/inexpensive bass amps sound horrible. The > Fender Bassman 25 is one we’re currently considering. But what I’d > really like to do is run the bass direct into an effects unit like the > Bass POD or ZOOM 506II and then out to a small PA system.

If you’re thinking you can get a PA setup for LESS than a small bass amp that will sound better, forget it. The requirements for power and speaker size for bass don’t change just because it’s running through a PA. Are you looking at new amps? For the cost of that Bassman 25 you could buy a used Peavey amp like a Combo or TNT that would do the job. —                                                    Brian Rost                                                   Stargen, Inc.

Response:

You’d be pushing your small PA too much, especially if you want to be heard over drums/guitars/etc. For the price of a Bass POD (around $350) you could get yourself a nice sounding and fairly powerful combo – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I find all the lower watage/inexpensive bass amps sound horrible. The > Fender Bassman 25 is one we’re currently considering. But what I’d > really like to do is run the bass direct into an effects unit like the > Bass POD or ZOOM 506II and then out to a small PA system. > What I’d like to know is what the requirements on the PA would be? Do > I have to have a sub-woofer on the PA system? Will it sound as bad as > the low-watt bassa mps? My wife likes the small portable Fender PA > systems, but the units are so small I don’t have much faith in it’s > sound. Is there any chance of blowing out the PA? > Thanks.

Response:

How do people actually play 50W+ amps?

Question:

My band plays at a bunch of local clubs/bar/whatever.  Some are fairly large.  I started with a 100W SS Fender that I had to keep the master on 2 or less.  Then I moved to a musicman 65W that I had to keep the master below 5 and now I’m using a 25W Mesa/Boogie Studio Caliber that I have to keep below 5.  Any louder and my stage volume is so loud it hurts and I overwelm everybody else.  I keep hear about guys play 50W, 100W and up with them at 10 or whatever and I just can’t figure out how they do it.  Sure I agree that all of my amps sound better cranked.  I’ve tried them.  My MB sounds MUCH better at about 8.  I don’t know if it’s the speaker or the power amp distorting but it sounds awesome.  So how can I do this on stage? — Check out http://www.stoneattic.com !!!!

Response:

Don’t have an answer exactly but I do have to agree that some folks is either full of it or just too damn loud. I use a Mesa 22 watt studio that never gets much past 4(master and pre), a Peavye SS bandit that never has been past 4, and once in a pinch a Marshall 10 watt practice amp with a 6" speaker at about 8 in a average to small club. My co guitarist has a 40 watt Fender Deluxe which has never been over 1 in this club and outside gigs has been turned up to 3. Same club; some cats using Marshall half stacks and hiwatt stacks, blue voodoo crates and others and they all sund like shit. Probably unable to open it up or just don’t know what they are doing anyway. DPR – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My band plays at a bunch of local clubs/bar/whatever.  Some are fairly > large.  I started with a 100W SS Fender that I had to keep the master on 2 > or less.  Then I moved to a musicman 65W that I had to keep the master below > 5 and now I’m using a 25W Mesa/Boogie Studio Caliber that I have to keep > below 5.  Any louder and my stage volume is so loud it hurts and I overwelm > everybody else.  I keep hear about guys play 50W, 100W and up with them at > 10 or whatever and I just can’t figure out how they do it.  Sure I agree > that all of my amps sound better cranked.  I’ve tried them.  My MB sounds > MUCH better at about 8.  I don’t know if it’s the speaker or the power amp > distorting but it sounds awesome.  So how can I do this on stage? > — > Check out http://www.stoneattic.com !!!!

Response:

> My MB sounds > MUCH better at about 8.  I don’t know if it’s the speaker or the power amp > distorting but it sounds awesome.  So how can I do this on stage?

Well, since you haven’t gotten any answers to this (yet — it’s early), until the more knowledgeable posters respond, I’ll say that this is a very common topic of discussion on this NG. Don’t hope to get a consensus on this, either, as there are varying opinions held here. A few of the more common recommendations have been:   Pull two power tubes (assuming you have four) and adjust impedance accordingly   Use one of the different loading devices, e.g. Hot Plate, or Power Brake, etc.   Use Yellow Jackets to use el84s. I’ve not tried this, but I’d expect a very significant change of tone.   Direct your cab away from the audience and/or throw some carpet or a blanket over the front; or use a plexiglass baffle.   Build a speaker isolation box with a mike in it. Send the miked signal to the board and/or another stage amp. I know that Holdsworth has resorted to this method and he’s *particularly* fanactical about tone. These aren’t the only ways to deal with this, but they’re the most commonly espoused here. Note also, that the above does not necessarily represent my views. They’re simply a digest of common answers to this FAQ. I’m confident that their respective proponents will pipe up to support their favorite recipes. — What? Another sig?… Before you buy.

Response:

Folks, I’ve got something to say I grew up around loud music in the sixties.  Folks were using Super Reverbs, Twins, Showmans, Vox Beatles and Sunns.  We thought nothing of it.  Rock and roll was meant to be loud.  If you were serious, you bought a big amp.  If you were really serious, you piled a lot of big amps together.  And we cranked it up.  I don’t think you could have joined any of bands I played in if you showed up with the kind of shoebox amps that dominate the clubs and blues jams these days.  You’d have gotten laughed down the road! Then came Cream, Jimi Hendrix and Marshall amps.  We all said, "yep, Marshall is the sound.  A half stack was respectable.  A full stack, better.  The guys I played with used dual stacks – each.  The stage looked like Spinal Tap.  It was still rock and roll, and it kicked ass! I go to the blues jams now, and I see these tiny 1×12 combos everywhere that look like a joke on stage to begin with.  Friggin’ little shoeboxes, I’d be mortified, I’ll tell you the truth. Some people have got no pride whatsoever! And a line of stompboxes on the floor that take a bigger box to haul them off in than the amp they’re being played through!  Then comes the fake distortion that sounds like a bee in a box – until the band plays and you can’t hear it anymore.  Instead of hearing the guitarist, we get to watch him working the panel, frantic, trying to find a setting that sounds like he’s used to in his bedroom and still be heard.  But it doesn’t happen. After awhile, it just pisses me off.  I’m so sick of seeing toys designed with amateurs in mind on a stage where I want to hear some real music – be it rock, blues, jazz . . .  And then we hear the tired old "Oh yeah, we’ll fix it in the PA, you’ll be fine". . . . Right.  I’ve got some swampland in Florida I’ll sell you too, if you believe THAT! For a concert gig, give me a line of Marshalls for guitar, a couple of SVTs for bass, and double bass drum kit with a guy who knows how to play ‘em, and we’ll kick some ass.  Rock and roll is not for the faint-hearted.  Nor is the kind of blues I like.  (It kicks a lot of rock and roll ass!) For the club gigs, I’ll settle for a 50 or 100 watt Marshall through a 4×12.  MINIMUM.  Save the Go-rillas for the bedroom or library and show up with a respectable amp, will ya?  For cryin’ out loud, you’re contributing to a bad image!  No wonder rock and roll is damned near history!  Shit, I might be an old fart by now, but I’m not THAT old yet! So now, the question, how do you do it?  Get yourself a Marshall Power Brake or other attenuator.  Turn the attenuator full up, meaning 100% bypassed. Get your sound, knowing ahead of time that it’s GONNA be loud.  Then back the attenuator off by about two notches.  That’ll keep your sound quality where it needs to be, your volume will still be where it needs to be to play in any band other than a bunch of woosies, but the hard edge that rips people ears will be effectively brought under control.  And people will say, Holy Shit, that guy sounds great!  (Well, providing you have some tasteful chops that is!) – Kent Pearson http://members.aol.com/bluesguit1/index2.htm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My band plays at a bunch of local clubs/bar/whatever.  Some are fairly > large.  I started with a 100W SS Fender that I had to keep the master on 2 > or less.  Then I moved to a musicman 65W that I had to keep the master > below > 5 and now I’m using a 25W Mesa/Boogie Studio Caliber that I have to keep > below 5.  Any louder and my stage volume is so loud it hurts and I > overwelm > everybody else.  I keep hear about guys play 50W, 100W and up with them at > 10 or whatever and I just can’t figure out how they do it.  Sure I agree > that all of my amps sound better cranked.  I’ve tried them.  My MB sounds > MUCH better at about 8.  I don’t know if it’s the speaker or the power amp > distorting but it sounds awesome.  So how can I do this on stage?

Response:

I think this is the right approach:  " …. these tiny 1×12 combos … " — or 2 x 10.  But here’s the problem:  " … a line of stompboxes on the floor … " Just keep your little amp, and crank it up to 8.  stomp boxes Stay home (or better yet, in the store un-bought) Then:  Play the Music.

Response:

> My band plays at a bunch of local clubs/bar/whatever.  I keep hear about > guys play 50W, 100W and up with them at 10 or whatever and I just can’t > figure out how they do it.

My 65-watt Peavey Triumph used to run fully-open in my band; the drummer and bass player were really loud (and I was wearing ear plugs so didn’t care).  My Mesa though sticks around 3 or 4 on the master volume, and my clean channel is around 4 pre, 10 post versus the lead channel being 10 pre 3 post. Oh yeah, then I cut the volume even more with a volume pedal in the 100% saturated effect loop. -tom! — Mesa Dual Rectifier driven by Time guitars email if you have a Time for sale!

Response:

> > Oh yeah, then I cut the volume even more with a volume pedal in > the 100% saturated effect loop. > I use a volume pedal too, but never tried it in the effects loop.  That > sounds like a good trick.

Yeah it’s great; I can crank the preamp WAY up and get it to do just what I want.  Naturally I lose some amp characteristics, but I can just dig into it and go crazy. One Q for y’all.  The pedal I’m using is a Morely wah pedal that when "off" is a volume pedal.  The volume, however, only seems to go from 50% to 100%; I can’t completely cut the volume to my amplifier with it.  I don’t mind this feature, but would anyone know why this is (again, my parallel effect loop is at 100% saturation)?  If I yank one of the cords to the pedal, the sound indeed goes out completely… -tom! — Mesa Dual Rectifier driven by Time guitars email if you have a Time for sale!

Response:

> So now, the question, how do you do it?  Get yourself a Marshall Power Brake > or other attenuator.  Turn the attenuator full up, meaning 100% bypassed. > Get your sound, knowing ahead of time that it’s GONNA be loud.  Then back > the attenuator off by about two notches.  That’ll keep your sound quality > where it needs to be, your volume will still be where it needs to be to play > in any band other than a bunch of woosies, but the hard edge that rips > people ears will be effectively brought under control.  And people will say, > Holy Shit, that guy sounds great!  (Well, providing you have some tasteful > chops that is!)

You’ve got a bit of a point.  I watched one of those seven-bands-in-one- night events at the Bitter End (NYC) last month, and the guitarist that stole the show was a guy who cranked it WAY the hell up.  Good chops, but he basically played the same solo in all of the tunes (Trower, Hendrix, etc.), and had none of the nuances of Hendrix’ chording. He played loud as shit, though, with good tone–and the crowd LOVED him. It brought back lots of bad memories from the 70s, but I’m sure glad I didn’t have to go on after him.  I like passing notes, good phrasing, and can’t play an unextended chord to save my life.   I wouldn’t have had a chance. — When fighting monsters, take care not to become one. ObURL: http://home.earthlink.net/~huddler This post contains personal opinions only.

Response:

> Oh yeah, then I cut the volume even more with a volume pedal in > the 100% saturated effect loop.

I use a volume pedal too, but never tried it in the effects loop.  That sounds like a good trick. – KP

Response:

Kent Pearson schrieb in Nachricht … >I go to the blues jams now, and I see these tiny 1×12 combos everywhere that >look like a joke on stage to begin with.  Friggin’ little shoeboxes, I’d be >mortified, I’ll tell you the truth.

I disagree at that point. Of course a 1×12 has not the volume nor the punch of a 4×12. I played a 1×12 for the last 10 years. Before that, I played JCM800

Ampeg B-15 good for guitar or just bass?

Question:

What do people think of Ampeg B-15s for use with guitar? I know they’re usually used with bass. I play mainly jazz and some fusion and I like a fat semi-overdriven tone. Is this a good amp for that? I would try one out but there are no ampeg dealers near where I live, and I have an opportunity to buy an original.  Any input would be great. Thanks. -Emery

Response:

I think they are great guitar amps!!!   Very warm and purr when they break up.  They really have a sound of there own.  I definitly think you should give it a go Alex – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> What do people think of Ampeg B-15s for use with guitar? I know they’re > usually used with bass. I play mainly jazz and some fusion and I like a > fat semi-overdriven tone. Is this a good amp for that? I would try one > out but there are no ampeg dealers near where I live, and I have an > opportunity to buy an original.  Any input would be great. > Thanks. -Emery

Response:

(mark   ) writes: >What do people think of Ampeg B-15s for use with guitar? >They’re very good. If you have one, have fun. If you’re looking, consider the >B-12 also. It seems a bit more guitar-friendly.

Back in my callow youth I used a B15 a lot, the 15" speaker gives a great low end and I never noticed any problem with the higher freqs. Nowadays I probably could not tell anyway :^).  I always thought of the B18 as being the real bass amp anyway. The B12 was also cool, though they didn’t have a extension speaker out. Matter of fact the only way the B12  connected to the speaker was through the clips that held the amp top in place on the cabinet. I can remember playing a gig using both a B12 and a B15 back in High School. The B12 had a "line out" jack to interconnect two amps, though it seemed much more hotter than a line out should be, more like a pre amp out. My memory is that the B15 connected thusly sounded like a scalded rodent. Talk about tube saturation :^).  One of the teacher/chaperone’s had the misfortune to be standing in front of this rig when I first plugged in; dude almost jumped outta his skin. Doug Trueblood

Response:

I used to jump into two amps from my guitar signal processor (preamp/rat/etc…) which gave quite a strong signal-out… into one amp and out of a second jack from that gibson amp into my b-15 amp … two amps in parallel… just connect an input from each amp with a guitar cord… different resistor/drops on each input will make the sound quality vary depending on which jacks you use for what… my gibson (not very bassy) ran 6v6 tubes which would distort to creamy compression before the tubes in the b-15; b-15 kept a clean and glassy low and mid… like the bottom end of a fender twin sort of… and when I rolled up the volume into these two to max, then the harmonics would kick in from the b-15… beaUtiful…

Response:

Soldano and 5881 tubes?

Question:

I visited Musician’s Friend website and looked up the info they had on Soldanos.  I was quite surpised to learn that Soldanos used 5881 power tubes.   Aren’t those the same tubes that were used in the really awful sounding JCM 900’s. Wouldn’t EL34’s be a better choice? Do Bogners use EL34’s or 5881s? Jarl Sigurd To listen to a JCM 900 that uses EL34’s, visit http://geocities.com/SunsetStrip/Pavilion/4085

Response:

: I visited Musician’s Friend website and looked : up the info they had on Soldanos.  I was quite : surpised to learn that Soldanos used 5881 : power tubes.   Aren’t those the same tubes : that were used in the really awful sounding : JCM 900’s. Wouldn’t EL34’s be a better choice? : Do Bogners use EL34’s or 5881s? It’s not the tubes that make the difference, it’s the design of the amp.   5881s are similar to 6L6 tubes, which have been used in Fenders and many other amps with great success for many years. Jas. To listen to a guitar player whose amp uses 6L6 tubes, go to… ah, nevermind. James Andrews Philadelphia, PA Remove the XX

Response:

>Aren’t those the same tubes >that were used in the really awful sounding >JCM 900’s. Wouldn’t EL34’s be a better choice?

It’s not the tubes that make the 900’s sound awful, it’s the design and components of the amp.

Response:

>  Aren’t those the same tubes >: that were used in the really awful sounding >: JCM 900’s. Wouldn’t EL34’s be a better choice? >: Do Bogners use EL34’s or 5881s?

I heard the original 6L6 Soldanos sounded best. Bogner uses EL-34 or 6L6 Carl

Response:

> I visited Musician’s Friend website and looked > up the info they had on Soldanos.  I was quite > surpised to learn that Soldanos used 5881 > power tubes.   Aren’t those the same tubes > that were used in the really awful sounding > JCM 900’s. Wouldn’t EL34’s be a better choice? > Do Bogners use EL34’s or 5881s?

Jarl – it’s the output transformers that make the difference in tone. Yes, there are differences between 6l6’s and 34’s but the transformers are really what matters.  Mike Soldano designed his transformers for the tone he was after.  He probably chose to use 6l6’s because of availability and consistency.  Marshall used 6l6’s there for a while because the el34 market was dry.  Marshall transformers sound like crap with 6l6’s. —

Response:

>I visited Musician’s Friend website and looked >up the info they had on Soldanos.  I was quite >surpised to learn that Soldanos used 5881 >power tubes.   Aren’t those the same tubes >that were used in the really awful sounding >JCM 900’s. Wouldn’t EL34’s be a better choice? >Do Bogners use EL34’s or 5881s?

I don’t really disagree with any other posts in this thread so far, but my own opinions:  I don’t personally like Sovtek 5881’s.  They’re a completely  different tube from old American 5881’s (now out of production).  To me, they sound flat, without much detail.  Of course some  like them for just that reason.  In many amps they tend not to  portray string squeaks and little glitches  vividly (like  Sylvania or Svetlana tubes do).  Give me the Sylvanias or Svets  AND the string squeaks AND the deeper image of what the strings  are really doing.  Speaking of…  Svetlana 6L6GC’s may work in that amp.  Check  with a good tech at the manufacturer.  Sovtek 5881’s are a  rugged tube, but Svet 6L6GC’s will usually stand up to similar  plate voltages.  Again, verify.  Both 5881’s and 6L6GC’s are ‘beam tubes’.  They tend to have a  very ‘chunky’ (Fenderish) tone that distorts OK, but usually do  not transition into distortion as gracefully as an EL34.  EL34’s and ‘true pentodes’ in general, will sound a bit thinner  than beam tubes at low vol.  Not nec bad!  Someone called them  ’feathery’, which I like).  They will transition into distortion  gracefully, and they work well in high-volume amps like Marshalls.  Often, BRANDS of tubes make as big a difference as the number  or family (beam vs true pentode).  Generally, I like Svetlanas.  I find many Teslas to be shrill.  I find many Sovteks to lack  depth (see above).  Not true of all tube types, but I don’t  feel like typing all night.  Joe Bac is correct:  ’Iron’ (transformers) are very important.  Unfortunately it’s not easy to swap ‘em.  It may be possible  to swap your output tubes to see if you can get something you  like better. That’s all for now. MGarvin

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I visited Musician’s Friend website and looked > up the info they had on Soldanos.  I was quite > surpised to learn that Soldanos used 5881 > power tubes.   Aren’t those the same tubes > that were used in the really awful sounding > JCM 900’s. Wouldn’t EL34’s be a better choice? > Do Bogners use EL34’s or 5881s? >Jarl – it’s the output transformers that make the difference in tone. >Yes, there are differences between 6l6’s and 34’s but the transformers >are really what matters.  Mike Soldano designed his transformers for the >tone he was after.  He probably chose to use 6l6’s because of >availability and consistency.  Marshall used 6l6’s there for a while >because the el34 market was dry.  Marshall transformers sound like crap >with 6l6’s. >–

So if I understand what you’re saying correctly, 6L6’s require more expensive transformers to sound good than EL34’s? Jarl Sigurd To listen to guitar playing using Marshalls with EL34’s visit http://geocities.com/SunsetStrip/Pavilion/4085

Response:

>So if I understand what you’re saying correctly, 6L6’s require more >expensive transformers to sound good than EL34’s? >Jarl Sigurd

Expense is not nec. related to the tube type.  In fact, some like the more ‘distant’ sound of a good old cheapo transformer as opposed to the more direct, tone of expensive iron (maybe think Matchless tone as an example…very up-front). The required output transformer primary impedance is different for 6L6-series vs EL34. There is no ‘ideal’ primary impedance, but guitar amp mfgs usually pick a spot that maximizes harmonics without going overboard and dissipating too much from tube plates. Having said that, 6L6’s usually have around 4.5k primary imp. EL34’s usually have around 3K primary imp. That primary impedance will change somewhat, depending on speaker impedance, so again, it’s not a hard-line measurement.  Just a guideline. What it DOES mean is that if you put a 6L6 into an EL34 amp, you will usually be running the prim. impedance lower than normal which might stress tubes. Conversely, putting EL34’s into a 6L6 amp will tend to diminish the harmonics just a tad or change the harmonic spectrum.  Some may even like this, though.

Response:

It isnt the tubes, it’s the transformer that makes most the difference – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I visited Musician’s Friend website and looked >up the info they had on Soldanos.  I was quite >surpised to learn that Soldanos used 5881 >power tubes.   Aren’t those the same tubes >that were used in the really awful sounding >JCM 900’s. Wouldn’t EL34’s be a better choice? >Do Bogners use EL34’s or 5881s? >Jarl Sigurd >To listen to a JCM 900 that uses EL34’s, visit >http://geocities.com/SunsetStrip/Pavilion/4085

Response:

> I visited Musician’s Friend website and looked > up the info they had on Soldanos.  I was quite > surpised to learn that Soldanos used 5881 > power tubes.   Aren’t those the same tubes > that were used in the really awful sounding > JCM 900’s.

A lot of Soldanos were made when there were few, if any 6L6’s (5881 is a type of 6L6) available in quantity, besides the Russian 5881’s they used. (The Yamaha-Soldanos were worse, being chock full of Chinese tubes) Replacing these with better 6L6’s, AFAIK, is not a problem, and they should sound better with better tubes, too. AFAIK, there’s little in common between Soldanos and JCM900 with 5881’s besides the output tubes. Now stocking reissue Magnequest transformers for Dynaco(TM) and Sunn ™! http://www.triodeel.com/parts.htm#transformer Ned Carlson  Triode Electronics "where da tubes are!" 2225 W Roscoe Chicago, IL, 60618 USA  http://www.triodeel.com ph 773-871-7459 fax 773-871-7938 12:30 to 8 PM CT, (1830-0200 UTC) 12:30-5 Sat, Closed Wed & Sun  

Response:

> It isnt the tubes, it’s the transformer that makes most the difference.

Big 10-4, good buddy. An amp tech verified this in spades by poking a Marshall output xformer at the end of Fender electronics. Voila!  Instant Marshal Reverb. With that one change, the Fender tone stack became irrelevant. -drh —

Response:

> So if I understand what you’re saying correctly, 6L6’s require more > expensive transformers to sound good than EL34’s?

Not really.  I don’t think expense has anything to do with it.  If we go back a ways in time, the original holy grail guitar amp was/is the fender tweed bassman.  This is a 6l6 based amp.  Marshall based his design off this amp.  In fact, I believe his original design used KT-66 which is similiar to 6l6 – electronically speaking.  Eventually, he went to el34’s.  All the reason for this is he was based in England and those tubes were for the most part the European version of the 6l6 or 5881. Given what Jim Marshall had access to based on his geography, that’s how his transformers were originally chosen.  Which is why a marshall sounds different then a fender even though the design principles are similiar. Many modern day amp design/mfg’rs start with a bassman, or a marshall, or a vox in mind.  Many make swiss army knives – Boogie for example.  By having transformers that can deal with the different biasing, they allow you to change tubes to whatever you like.   Soldano began his career modifying marshalls but he favored 6l6/5881 tubes for whatever reason.  Mike chose to pick the most expensive parts and built his product like a tank because of all the repair experience he had fixing broken marshalls.  That’s why a SLO costs what it does for the most part.  I’ve had my SLO since 93 and have gigged it religiously.  It has been the most reliable amp I have ever owned and lord knows I’ve been thru lots of amps.  My SLO blew a fuse once and it was from the fact that the fuse just gave out not because there’s a problem with the amp. Anyway – maybe that clears some of this up for you. —

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It isnt the tubes, it’s the transformer that makes most the difference. > Big 10-4, good buddy. > An amp tech verified this in spades by > poking a Marshall output xformer > at the end of Fender electronics. > Voila!  Instant Marshal Reverb. > With that one change, the > Fender tone stack became irrelevant.

I really wish I didn’t know about this. *Sigh*. > -drh > —

– X-No-Archive: yes

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > It isnt the tubes, it’s the transformer that makes most the difference. > Big 10-4, good buddy. > An amp tech verified this in spades by > poking a Marshall output xformer > at the end of Fender electronics. > Voila!  Instant Marshal Reverb. > With that one change, the > Fender tone stack became irrelevant. >I really wish I didn’t know about this. *Sigh*.

Even better: Swap in real high quality precision-wound ‘old iron’ like a UTC transformer.  Even their lower-end transformers have much heavier cores than equiv-rated guitar transformers.  Like going from a Princeton to a Bassman, but moreso.  As I mentioned, some don’t like the tone, possibly cause it’s too detailed and in-your-face.  Makes it apparent how ‘bad’ (or good?) some guitar amp transformers are. I do respectfully disagree to some extent about xfmrs vs output tubes vs tone controls: Everyone’s ears are sensitive to different things, but I find a huge difference between 6L6 family vs EL34. Also tone controls: Fender has been using one basic design for ages. The value of the RC net formed by the treble cap and treble pot (250p/250k) are an integral part of the Fender sound (IMO).  (Change that cap and see if you agree). Marshall has a LOT of tone stack designs.  Often very strange (Check the bottom schematic of Doyle’s Marshall Book, p234.  Who designed that thing?) Even when Marshall copies the Fender circuit, they usually do something different.  Sometimes they use the same 33k ’slope resistor’ in both the plate-loaded and the cathode follower versions of their circuits.  Big differences in loading on the plate circuit. Other times, they change the notch frequencies so that there is more midrange overall, but also change the mid resistor/pot so very sharp, steep midrange notches can result due to phase shift at the center frequency (kinda like a T-filter).  The result of those circuits is very non-Fenderish to my ears. Re xfmrs vs tubes vs tone controls (may as well mention speakers, too, since they contribute a lot to signature tone): It’s sometimes tough to eval transformers since the pure efficiency of a heavy transformer can lead to different impressions re tone. I hesitate to say which makes the most difference.  They all do different things to sound…sometimes xfmr and output tubes will interact directly with speakers with odd impedance curves, throwing another monkey wrench into the equation. Component-wise, I’d have a tough time defining what I think of as defining Marshall’s sound, though Fender’s approach is more clearly defined.  You could put old Jensens on a Marshall and get one aspect of Fender-like tone.  Or swap tone-stacks, etc.  It keeps things interesting. Or…how about KT66’s in a Fender amp?  (make sure you have enough extra filament current).  Or EL37’s?  (not that you’ll find those) MGarvin (Now back to your regularly scheduled flame-war. <g>)

Response:

Mark, I don’t like you.  :P  You always have some great stuff to share with the group! Thanks, Gil – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Even better: Swap in real high quality precision-wound ‘old iron’ like >a UTC transformer.  Even their lower-end transformers have much >heavier cores than equiv-rated guitar transformers.  Like going from a >Princeton to a Bassman, but moreso.  As I mentioned, some don’t like >the tone, possibly cause it’s too detailed and in-your-face.  Makes it >apparent how ‘bad’ (or good?) some guitar amp transformers are. >I do respectfully disagree to some extent about xfmrs vs output tubes >vs tone controls: >Everyone’s ears are sensitive to different things, but I find a huge >difference between 6L6 family vs EL34. >Also tone controls: Fender has been using one basic design for ages. >The value of the RC net formed by the treble cap and treble pot >(250p/250k) are an integral part of the Fender sound (IMO).  (Change >that cap and see if you agree). >Marshall has a LOT of tone stack designs.  Often very strange (Check >the bottom schematic of Doyle’s Marshall Book, p234.  Who designed >that thing?) >Even when Marshall copies the Fender circuit, they usually do >something different.  Sometimes they use the same 33k ’slope resistor’ >in both the plate-loaded and the cathode follower versions of their >circuits.  Big differences in loading on the plate circuit. >Other times, they change the notch frequencies so that there is more >midrange overall, but also change the mid resistor/pot so very sharp, >steep midrange notches can result due to phase shift at the center >frequency (kinda like a T-filter).  The result of those circuits is >very non-Fenderish to my ears. >Re xfmrs vs tubes vs tone controls (may as well mention speakers, >too, since they contribute a lot to signature tone): >It’s sometimes tough to eval transformers since the pure efficiency >of a heavy transformer can lead to different impressions re tone. >I hesitate to say which makes the most difference.  They all do >different things to sound…sometimes xfmr and output tubes will >interact directly with speakers with odd impedance curves, throwing >another monkey wrench into the equation. >Component-wise, I’d have a tough time defining what I think of as >defining Marshall’s sound, though Fender’s approach is more clearly >defined.  You could put old Jensens on a Marshall and get one aspect >of Fender-like tone.  Or swap tone-stacks, etc.  It keeps things >interesting. >Or…how about KT66’s in a Fender amp?  (make sure you have enough >extra filament current).  Or EL37’s?  (not that you’ll find those) >MGarvin >(Now back to your regularly scheduled flame-war. <g>)

Response:

> > So if I understand what you’re saying correctly, 6L6’s require more > expensive transformers to sound good than EL34’s? > Not really.  I don’t think expense has anything to do with it.  If we go > back a ways in time, the original holy grail guitar amp was/is the > fender tweed bassman.  This is a 6l6 based amp.  Marshall based his > design off this amp.  In fact, I believe his original design used KT-66 > which is similiar to 6l6 – electronically speaking.

According to the Doyle book, 5881’s.   Eventually, he went > to el34’s.  All the reason for this is he was based in England and those > tubes were for the most part the European version of the 6l6 or 5881.

EL34’s really aren’t much like 6L6’s…but I don’t think that geography had much to do with this change. 6L6’s really were made in Britain at the time (Brimar made them), KT66’s were plenty available as well. If they’d wanted to just save some money, they could’ve imported Japanese 6L6’s (NEC made a near dead-on knockoff of the black plate 6L6-GC’s RCA made). > Given what Jim Marshall had access to based on his geography, that’s how > his transformers were originally chosen.

According to Doyle, they were buying them right out of the Radiospares catalog, of all things. — Ned Carlson  Triode Electronics "where da tubes are!" 2225 W Roscoe Chicago, IL, 60618 USA ph 773-871-7459 fax 773-871-7938 12:30 to 8 PM CT, (1830-0200 UTC) 12:30-5 Sat, Closed Wed & Sun <A HREF="http://www.triodeel.com">http://www.triodeel.com</A>

Response:

EL-84 tubes and their sound.

Question:

I have a Crate Vintage Club 5310 50 watt amp. I bought it new for a very good price and really like the sound it produces. It sounds very similar to the tone that my brother can get with his Fender Hot Rod Deville, but the Crate can get a little more dirt inthe overdrive channel. This amp has 4 EL-84 tubes in the output stage. It seems to have that classic British tube sound that seems to be attributed to the EL-34 tubes. What is the difference between these tubes? I can’t find any description on the EL-84 tubes on the net.    Any opinions welcome. Deane Alexander

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I have a Crate Vintage Club 5310 50 watt amp. I bought it new for a very >good price and really like the sound it produces. It sounds very similar to >the tone that my brother can get with his Fender Hot Rod Deville, but the >Crate can get a little more dirt inthe overdrive channel. This amp has 4 >EL-84 tubes in the output stage. It seems to have that classic British tube >sound that seems to be attributed to the EL-34 tubes. What is the difference >between these tubes? I can’t find any description on the EL-84 tubes on the >net. >   Any opinions welcome. >Deane Alexander

The EL84 is a lower powered tube than the EL34. Steve

Response:

So what does that mean with respect to how the sound? Craig – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It seems to have that classic British tube >sound that seems to be attributed to the EL-34 tubes. What is the >difference between these tubes? I can’t find any description on > the EL-84 tubes on the net. >The EL84 is a lower powered tube than the EL34. >Steve

Response:

>This amp has 4 >EL-84 tubes in the output stage. It seems to have that classic British tube >sound that seems to be attributed to the EL-34 tubes. What is the difference >between these tubes? I can’t find any description on the EL-84 tubes on the >net. >Any opinions welcome.

The EL-84 is similar to the EL-34 in that both are "power pentodes", rather than the later-design and somewhat more efficient "beam-power" tubes. What this means as far as the sound is, oh, how to describe it… a fizzy and crunchy kind of distortion, one I particularly like for electric guitar. Chris Mohrbacher

Response:

> I have a Crate Vintage Club 5310 50 watt amp. This amp has 4 > EL-84 tubes in the output stage. It seems to have that classic British tube > sound that seems to be attributed to the EL-34 tubes.

Someone can correct me if I’m wrong. I believe the EL-84’s are the tube used in the Vox AC-30’s that were so beloved by many british bands including Queen.  (If Brian May ain’t reason enough to live Vox, I don’t know what is.) The EL-34’s are the tube of choice in the majority of Marshalls. Both are "classic British tube sounds", for certain.

Response:

Try a search for 6BQ5 – its the same tube -Used in Vox AC30’s and many other smaller amps – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I have a Crate Vintage Club 5310 50 watt amp. I bought it new for a very >good price and really like the sound it produces. It sounds very similar to >the tone that my brother can get with his Fender Hot Rod Deville, but the >Crate can get a little more dirt inthe overdrive channel. This amp has 4 >EL-84 tubes in the output stage. It seems to have that classic British tube >sound that seems to be attributed to the EL-34 tubes. What is the difference >between these tubes? I can’t find any description on the EL-84 tubes on the >net. >   Any opinions welcome. >Deane Alexander

Response:

> It seems to have that classic British tube >sound that seems to be attributed to the EL-34 tubes. What is the difference >between these tubes? I can’t find any description on the EL-84 tubes on the >net.

Full data sheets on 6CA7/EL34 and 6BQ5/EL84 can be found at: http://www.triodeel.com/tubedata.htm Ned Carlson  Triode Electronics "where da tubes are!" 2225 W Roscoe Chicago, IL, 60618 USA ph 773-871-7459 fax 773-871-7938 12:30 to 8 PM CT, (1830-0200 UTC) 12:30-5 Sat, Closed Wed & Sun http://www.triodeel.com Your Start Page for Tube and Tube Amp info on the net… http://www.triodeel.com/tlinks.htm

Response:

Not a flame, but: > The EL-84 is similar to the EL-34 in that both are "power pentodes", rather > than the later-design…

Hmmmm….I could be wrong, but I’m pretty sure that in general beam power tetrodes (6v6, 6L6 etc) predate true pentodes (like the EL84 and EL34) > …and somewhat more efficient "beam-power" tubes.

More efficient in what way? Cheers Andrew — Andrew-dot-McWhirter-at-Bigfoot-dot-com These opinions are hereby disowned by the company I work for.

Response:

Interesting…  I thought the beam power tubes were a later innovation, to lower screen dissipation or something like that, by replacing the suppressor grid with beam-forming plates. But hey, I could be wrong too. Bottom line is, I’ve had better luck getting a guitar sound I like out of the EL34, with the 6550 running a close second, and the others trailing. So maybe I’m over-generalizing about the pentode/beam-power thing. To each their own. Chris Mohrbacher – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Not a flame, but: > The EL-84 is similar to the EL-34 in that both are "power pentodes", rather > than the later-design… >Hmmmm….I could be wrong, but I’m pretty sure that in general beam power >tetrodes (6v6, 6L6 etc) predate true pentodes (like the EL84 and EL34) > …and somewhat more efficient "beam-power" tubes. >More efficient in what way? >Cheers >Andrew >– >Andrew-dot-McWhirter-at-Bigfoot-dot-com >These opinions are hereby disowned by the company I work for.

Response:

Hi Andrew, >Hmmmm….I could be wrong, but I’m pretty sure that in general beam power >tetrodes (6v6, 6L6 etc) predate true pentodes (like the EL84 and EL34)

All my databooks say 6V6 and 6L6 are pentodes. Marc

Response:

> Hi Andrew, >Hmmmm….I could be wrong, but I’m pretty sure that in general beam power >tetrodes (6v6, 6L6 etc) predate true pentodes (like the EL84 and EL34) > All my databooks say 6V6 and 6L6 are pentodes. > Marc

Well, Chris, I was half right and half wrong, I think.  From VTV #2, Eric Barbour sez: " Although beam-power tetrodes had taken over the market in the 1940s, this new tube was a true pentode, an archaic design by the standards of the day. This may have been done in order to circumvent RCA’s patents on beam tubes. Strange as all this must have seemed, Mullard took just this big leap then they introduced the EL34 in late 1953." So the EL34 was later, but pentodes in general were earlier it seems Marc: depends how you define ‘pentode’.  In 6V6/6L6, there is no separate connection for the beam forming plates, so there are only 4 electrically separate elements, so it’s a tetrode.  It seems that some books disagree with me, but hey, I can live with that.  It can be an important distinction in some applications.  Some Traynor amps actually *USED* the separate pinout of the EL34 suppressor grid (tying it to a neg voltage IIRC), and didn’t simply tie it to the cathode.  You cannot do that with 6L6…because the plates are internally tied to the cathode, so electrically at least, it’s a pentode. That’s the way I understand it, anyway.  What Eric Barbour says above seems to agree with my understanding. Cheers Andrew — Andrew-dot-McWhirter-at-Bigfoot-dot-com These opinions are hereby disowned by the company I work for.

Response:

>Hi Andrew, >Hmmmm….I could be wrong, but I’m pretty sure that in general beam power >tetrodes (6v6, 6L6 etc) predate true pentodes (like the EL84 and EL34) >All my databooks say 6V6 and 6L6 are pentodes.

Maybe it’s some kinda disinformation campaign by evil Dutch pentode freaks !  ;-) My RCA book calls an EL34 a power pentode and 6L6-GC a beam power tube. If you lok inside a broken 6L6, you’ll see the beam-forming plates. Power pentodes date from ca. 1931, about 5 years before beam-tetrode (or beam power, as RCA called them) tubes, the type ‘47 pentode was the output tube in the old Philco cathedral radios ca. 1932. Ned Carlson  Triode Electronics "where da tubes are!" 2225 W Roscoe Chicago, IL, 60618 USA ph 773-871-7459 fax 773-871-7938 12:30 to 8 PM CT, (1830-0200 UTC) 12:30-5 Sat, Closed Wed & Sun http://www.triodeel.com Your Start Page for Tube and Tube Amp info on the net… http://www.triodeel.com/tlinks.htm

Response:

Oil finish vs. Sprayed finish

Question:

> You cannot do it. The lacquer MUST be removed first. Oil finishes sink > into the wood as opposed to staying on the wood. Problems are that a > good oil takes a while to dry, and is pretty messy…

I didn’t mean that I was going to strip my guitar down and oil it…I am buying a new Steinberger bass and have narrowed the color choices down to natural oil, or gloss honeyburst. I am leaning toward honeyburst since it brings out the wood grain much better.

Response:

> Hi all. Just wondering if there are any benefits/problems of going with an > oil finish over a spray laquer finish.

You cannot do it. The lacquer MUST be removed first. Oil finishes sink into the wood as opposed to staying on the wood. Problems are that a good oil takes a while to dry, and is pretty messy… >All my guitars are laqured (or poly > or whatever), but I have never owned an oil finish guitar so I don’t know > how they stand up to time or punishment and stuff like that. I have played > plenty of oiled basses and guitars, so I know they feel great….but how > durable is it? Do you have to re-apply oil over time? Are certain types of > woods better oiled?

Oil is definately less durable than lacquer. It has been recommended that you reapply it periodically. I am looking at an oiled swamp ash Steinberger bass. > Thanks for your opinions!

As for oil, lots of people seem to rant about Tru-oil gunstock oil (polymerized tung oil) Its supposed to be easy to apply, hard, etc. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Paul Dragon

Response:

    PD> Hi all. Just wondering if there are any benefits/problems of     PD> going with an oil finish over a spray laquer finish. All my     PD> guitars are laqured (or poly or whatever), but I have never     PD> owned an oil finish guitar so I don’t know how they stand up     PD> to time or punishment and stuff like that. I have played     PD> plenty of oiled basses and guitars, so I know they feel     PD> great….but how durable is it? Do you have to re-apply oil     PD> over time? Are certain types of woods better oiled? Both my Warwick Thumbs are oil finished bubinga and wenge basses; the fretted has a wenge fretboard and the fretless has an ebony fretboard. For these basses, Warwick makes a wax you can buy in little metal canisters.  They recommend you wax the bass every two weeks. In my own experience, owning Thumbs for about 6 years now I’ve found that when new, they require a lot more waxing then once you’ve built up a good base (it’s already a good bass :-) .  They tend to get pretty thirsty sitting in a retailer’s warehouse!  And I’m convinced you can tell the difference once they’re nicely waxed up.  I usually make a point of waxing my basses when I change strings, which depending on gig schedule can be about every 4 weeks.  It takes about 45 minutes to do the whole bass, but I can do mine in parallel. I use the Warwick wax on the bodies and headstocks, but not on the neck or fretboard.  I’ve found it to be a little too sticky for those areas, so instead I use Formby’s Lemon Oil to clean the gunk on the fretboards, and then apply a coat of Butcher’s Wax to the front and back of the neck.  I like the feel of the Butcher’s much better; it’s slicker and it seems to provide more protection to the neck, but it takes a little longer to dry (say 20 minutes as opposed to about 5 for the Warwick wax).  Once the wax has dried, I take a clean rag and wipe all the areas down to remove the residue.  A cotton T-shirt works great for this. One advantage of the oil finished basses is that small nicks, scratches, and wear can be repaired very easily.  You just sand it down (with the grain) using 400 grit sandpaper or finer, then wax up the sanded region, and it’s as good as new. Be careful not to get the wax on your strings; it’ll definitely crud them up.  And have a small jeweler’s screwdriver handy for digging wax turds out from the nooks and crannies (like the space between your pickups and the body of the bass). One other little care note.  Some very carefully applied brass cleaner makes the brass nut shine nicely. -Barry

Response:

Hi Paul, It really depends on the type of oil finish used. A pure 100% tung oil finish is not terribly durable and does not offer very good protection from moisture, alcohol, etc. Most manufacturers do not use a pure oil finish. Most use a blended finish that contains oil and a hardening agent such as polyurethane. That’s what I use on my basses; I build 8-12 coats depending upon the wood type, and I have necer had a problem with sweat or other grunge penetrating the finish. It stands up nicely on the back of the neck as well. I have one particular bass on hand that has withstood many, many hot and sweaty gigs over the last few years and the finish shows no sign of wear. The upside is that it is very simple to wipe on a fresh coat of finish when your bass does start to wear (since any finish will wear eventually). Long winded answer, but I would say that most manufacturers use a hardener in their oil finishes. Durability can vary depending on exactly what they use and how many coats they apply. Cheers, Jack Read Read Custom Instruments Specializing in Handcrafted Electric Basses and Guitars http://www.readcustom.com Paul Dragon asked: "Hi all. Just wondering if there are any benefits/problems of going with an oil finish over a spray laquer finish. All my guitars are laqured (or poly or whatever), but I have never owned an oil finish guitar so I don’t know how they stand up to time or punishment and stuff like that. I have played plenty of oiled basses and guitars, so I know they feel great….but how durable is it? Do you have to re-apply oil over time? Are certain types of woods better oiled? I am looking at an oiled swamp ash Steinberger bass. Thanks for your opinions!"

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> > Hi all. Just wondering if there are any benefits/problems of going with an > oil finish over a spray laquer finish. All my guitars are laqured (or poly > or whatever), but I have never owned an oil finish guitar so I don’t know > how they stand up to time or punishment and stuff like that. I have played > plenty of oiled basses and guitars, so I know they feel great….but how > durable is it? Do you have to re-apply oil over time? Are certain types of > woods better oiled? I am looking at an oiled swamp ash Steinberger bass. > Thanks for your opinions!

I own an used oiled guitar (lineseed oil to be exact) now for apprx. 8 years and the wood is fine (apart from the usual scratches due to my sloppiness). It has an ash body and the guy who did the job claimed he literally soaked the body in oil. Hope this helps, Peter

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I dont know much about oiling, but i’m sure it would be a pain in the a$$ to do

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> Hi all. Just wondering if there are any benefits/problems of going with an > oil finish over a spray laquer finish. All my guitars are laqured (or poly > or whatever), but I have never owned an oil finish guitar so I don’t know > how they stand up to time or punishment and stuff like that. I have played > plenty of oiled basses and guitars, so I know they feel great….but how > durable is it? Do you have to re-apply oil over time? Are certain types of > woods better oiled? I am looking at an oiled swamp ash Steinberger bass. > Thanks for your opinions! > Paul Dragon

 I’ve used gel urethane on one of my guitars that I have played daily for over a year and it has held up well. You brush it on with a foam brush and wipe it off with a rag ,wait 8 hours and do it again. I’ts easy to apply and seems to be durable. I used "Mastercraft Gel Urethane" purchased a a "Naked Furniture" store. Gerry

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Hi all. Just wondering if there are any benefits/problems of going with an oil finish over a spray laquer finish. All my guitars are laqured (or poly or whatever), but I have never owned an oil finish guitar so I don’t know how they stand up to time or punishment and stuff like that. I have played plenty of oiled basses and guitars, so I know they feel great….but how durable is it? Do you have to re-apply oil over time? Are certain types of woods better oiled? I am looking at an oiled swamp ash Steinberger bass. Thanks for your opinions! Paul Dragon

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>Hi all. Just wondering if there are any benefits/problems of going with an >oil finish over a spray laquer finish. All my guitars are laqured (or poly >or whatever), but I have never owned an oil finish guitar so I don’t know >how they stand up to time or punishment and stuff like that. I have played >plenty of oiled basses and guitars, so I know they feel great….but how >durable is it? Do you have to re-apply oil over time? Are certain types of >woods better oiled? I am looking at an oiled swamp ash Steinberger bass. >Thanks for your opinions! >Paul Dragon

Paul – I’m not sure if certain woods are better oiled, but oiled guitars are very durable.  However, they do require more maintainance if you take care of it correctly.  You will have to reapply oil over time (just like your fretboard) – how often depends on a number of factors, including your climate, how often you play out, where you play, how much you sweat, etc.  In addition, you should clean it with an oil based cleaner, not a standard guitar polish.  If you take care of it properly, it will last a long time. jeff Bassist, Stickist, EURB for Spelling Tuesday System admin, etc in my spare time http://www.pipeline.com/~jjmon/spellingtues.htm

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Twin half power switch options, which is best?

Question:

Andy, Think about this for a second….. What is the object of using a standby switch to open the B+ voltage to the tubes? RIGHT, it keeps the tubes hot and there is no uneeded cycling when the tubes  get cold and have to be reheated.. The  tubes would still have a few hundred volts B+ on the plates with cold cathodes and no heaters running. How about going back to the cathodes of the final tubes and switching in some  resistance to the inner or outer pair or all four…to raise the negative  bias voltage a little bit on those two or  all of them? Or lower the screen voltage a little? Or lower the plate voltage on all the preamp tubes with a switchable resitor  and filter cap after one of the factory installed dropping resistors for more  voltage drop to that preamp section.. or driver tube. When you shut the current flow down on any pair of final tubes the B+ will rise a little because the power supply is not being taxed as  much. The preamp tubes have just a very small effect on the overall B+ rail. All of these WILL change the sound of the amp. SOme much more then others. A four tube Fender is a loud amp! They are not real easy to get tamed down and retain the Fender sound. Bruce

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writes: >I discussed this with a colleague of mine who suggested two options for >cutting out two of the four 6L6s to reduce power. >The first is to cut power to the filament by switching out the >connections to pin 2 or 7 on the pair to be cut.

LV:  BAD idea.  Don’t do it!!  The other suggestion >would be to take pin 8 (cathode) which is grounded and switch that in >and out on the pair to be cut.

LV:  This is the way to go. >The filament idea sounds safer since it isn’t high voltage and would >also keep the tubes from cooking when not in use.  Is this true?  Are >there other precautions I should take?  Will this alter bias voltage >elsewhere?  Anybody tried this?

LV:  You’ll be looking at reduced tube life due to cathode stripping if you do this.  No-one who knows their shit would suggest it.   >Any advice would be greatly appreciated! >Thanks, >Andy

It should also be noted that if you lift two cathodes from ground, you need to lift one from EACH side of the amp.  I suggest the inner two, since the remaining tubes will run slightly cooler due to the distance between them.  You also really need to change the speaker impedance when you do it this way, so you might want to look at a pentode-triode switch, which is almost as easy. Lord Valve

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> You could juke this up for a >4-tube design by using a 4PDT switch, I imagine…I never thought about >that one, much…most folks want these switches on 2-tube amps.  Note >that (on a 4-tube amp) if you switch the cathodes open on the inner >pair, and have a triode-pentode switch installed on the outer pair, >you’ll have three different ways to operate the amp…full power, half >power (well, a little more than half, actually), and triode mode.

If you accidentally switched the outer pair into triode mode, while the inner pair is still running, wouldn’t you smoke something? Dave Check out my HOME RECORDING web site… http://members.aol.com/DCMagnuson/index.html Now offering * F R E E * ads and reviews for indie CD releases

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>>wouldn’t this drastically change the tone of the power amp? >Dave, >Triode connecting will introduce more negative feedback into the power >amp.  This can cut the amount of "sparkle" and bottom end punch.

Hey, Dunc, doesn’t triode connection *cut* feedback, assuming that one has the same feedback resistor, since the triode connection would have less open loop gain? This sorta throws me for a loop, since the audiowanker stuff with triodes seem to have more bass for the watt than equivalent pentode/tetrode stuff. Perhaps the triode deal is best used with bass amps (makes sense to me)?? How about triode connection with *no* feedback? How about pentodes end to end, EF86’s all the way through, then EL34’s or EL84’s’s, skip the 12AX7’s? With no feedback, massive harmonics when overdriven, I’d think…and low IMD to boot. Ned Carlson, Triode Electronics, Chicago, IL http://www.triodeel.com Open 12:30-8 PM CT, 12:30-5 PM CT Sat Closed Wed ph:773-871-7459 fax 773-871-7938 "where da tubes are"

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writes: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Your Lordship, >Thank you very much for the advice, this seems to be an easy modification. >Just one point of clarification.  On "Pat’s Tube Schematics Site" >(http://nanaimo.ark.com/~pat/triode.jpg) he shows a Pentode to triode >conversion using 100 ohm resistors and not 1K.  Now, his schematic does not >specify if the tubes being converted are 6L6s or whatever and does not >indicate what kind of amp the conversion is made on.  So, just to check, >what would be the difference in using the 1K resisters instead of the 100 >ohm. >Thanks, >Sir Ampsalot

If you were going to leave the amp in triode mode, then the 100-ohm resistor would be a better choice.  If you’re going to switch back and forth, then the 1K (or 470-ohm) resistor is best; you’ll be looking at excess screen current with only 100 ohms in pentode mode. Lord Valve

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -(DCMagnuson) writes: > You could juke this up for a >4-tube design by using a 4PDT switch, I imagine…I never thought about >that one, much…most folks want these switches on 2-tube amps.  Note >that (on a 4-tube amp) if you switch the cathodes open on the inner >pair, and have a triode-pentode switch installed on the outer pair, >you’ll have three different ways to operate the amp…full power, half >power (well, a little more than half, actually), and triode mode. >If you accidentally switched the outer pair into triode mode, while the inner >pair is still running, wouldn’t you smoke something? >Dave

Naw, your Fender would just turn into a Mark IV… LV

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>Hey, Dunc, doesn’t triode connection *cut* feedback, assuming that >one has the same feedback resistor, since the triode connection >would have less open loop gain?

Hi Ned, Triode gives more local feedback, as opposed to the global feedback most amps have. Guitar amps generally don’t have a lot of global feedback, and some have none at all – this is where the effect will be most pronounced.  The lower open loop gain is due in itself to negative feedback which is inherent in triodes with lower plate resistance than tetrodes/pentodes. >This sorta throws me for a loop, since the audiowanker stuff >with triodes seem to have more bass for the watt than >equivalent pentode/tetrode stuff. Perhaps the triode deal is >best used with bass amps (makes sense to me)??

Well, I don’t get involved with the high end audio stuff, and like yourself I’m scratching my head at the above.  Here’s my theories – no hate mail to tell me they are bullshit please, I know that already, but this is rock’n'roll, so lie, lie, lie….. Theory 1: Pentode output = X$/watt.  Triode output = n x X$/watt.  If you figure that the triode amps are more "high end" (i.e. more expensive), then it seems logical for the manufacturer to throw in a little more expensive metal in the output transformer.  Ergo, more bass…. Theory 2: Good triodes are quite linear.  Result?  Less feedback required.  Lower damping.  Speaker more resonant at fo, therefore more bass. >How about triode connection with *no* feedback?

Check out the schematic for my Blues 112 (it’s on my site as a PDF). The power amp is VOX AC-15′ish with no feedback, and has switchable triode connection.  If you want to play clean in triode mode, it sounds like shit.  However…. if you thrash the power tubes in triode mode, it’s tone city…. >How about pentodes end to end, EF86’s all the way >through, then EL34’s or EL84’s’s, skip the 12AX7’s? >With no feedback, massive harmonics when overdriven, >I’d think…and low IMD to boot.

Heres a question for yourself…  Why are EF86’s not used in guitar amps??  Is it a noise issue???  I heard Dr.Z. is bringing out a kit and IIRC there’s an EF86 in there somewhere (but I maybe wrong). Where’s my DejaNews….. Best Regards, Duncan — Duncan Munro Check out http://www.muffy.demon.co.uk/ for Homebrew guitar amps and SPICE models

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> Oh, yeah, does anyone have any general impressions > of using those Ei Yugo KT90 as opposed to EL34 or > 6550, in a regular Marshall or other UK head?

I too would be interested in responces to this question.  Are the KT90s free of that annoying high end of the 6550s?  It would be ideal if they were like a tighter EL34 with more punch on the bottom end. Kelley

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>Theory 1: Pentode output = X$/watt.  Triode output = n x X$/watt.  If >you figure that the triode amps are more "high end" (i.e. more >expensive), then it seems logical for the manufacturer to throw in a >little more expensive metal in the output transformer.  Ergo, more >bass….

I think theory #2 is better. I’ve A/B’d 10 watt triode amps vs 35W UL, and the triodes seemed to have better bass, and it’s not an frequency response thing, either. >Theory 2: Good triodes are quite linear.  Result?  Less feedback >required.  Lower damping.  Speaker more resonant at fo, therefore more >bass.

That makes sense. >Check out the schematic for my Blues 112 (it’s on my site as a PDF). >The power amp is VOX AC-15′ish with no feedback, and has switchable >triode connection.  If you want to play clean in triode mode, it >sounds like shit.  However…. if you thrash the power tubes in triode >mode, it’s tone city….

That too makes sense..note that overdriven triodes clip quite differently than pentodes/tetrodes. You can demonstrate that on your ’scope, I’m sure. So, could you or anyone else tell me what the deal is with with ultralinear outputs on some of those old Bassman’s and the Marshall Major? (I know some folks love Majors.) Are they good/bad, is there an advantage to it for certain purposes, or what? Does anyone make stuff like that (NB: I’m sure no one is insane enough to make new Majors…but, hmm, there’s an idea for you, Duncan, there’s some folks in the UK that could make some very nice replica transformers) any more? Oh, yeah, does anyone have any general impressions of using those Ei Yugo KT90 as opposed to EL34 or 6550, in a regular Marshall or other UK head? Ned Carlson, Triode Electronics, Chicago, IL http://www.triodeel.com Open 12:30-8 PM CT, 12:30-5 PM CT Sat Closed Wed ph:773-871-7459 fax 773-871-7938 "where da tubes are"

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> Oh, yeah, does anyone have any general impressions > of using those Ei Yugo KT90 as opposed to EL34 or > 6550, in a regular Marshall or other UK head?

I can’t answer that one, but on a similar note, some earlier post were made in regards to a certain vintage of Jimi’s tones being based on that of a Marshall 100 watt equipped with KT-66.  Monday or Tuesday I’m going to swap back-and-forth between Svetlana EL-34, and Svetlana 6L6GC in a customers beautiful plexi 100 to see whether or not there is a poor-mann’s solution.  It’s got to sound pretty damn good I’d think.   -Danny

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Help with Amplifier Controls on Fender Blues Delux!!

Question:

I am a newbie/novice when it comes to guitar amps and I have some questions (possibly stupid) about all the controls on my Fender Blues Delux.  I know what the simple controls of volume, treble and bass do but in addition to these I have a Drive, Middle, Master, Reverb and Presence control.  Also I have two buttons labeled DriveSelect and Bright.   Question 1.  When I push in the DriveSelect control I can no longer use my volume control and I need to turn up the Drive control and use the Master control as my volume control.  I do hear a difference in sound but what exactly is going on here?  Why do I want to do this and what am I supposed to be hearing?  Is there a "correct way" of adjusting these controls? Question 2.  What are the Middle and Presence controls supposed to do? Should they only have an effect when I depress the DriveSelect button? Question 3.  What exactly is Reverb?  Am I supposed to hear a sort of echoing effect in the background?  Should it only have an effect when I depress the DriveSelect button? Question 4.  What in the world is this Bright button?  I don’t notice any difference when I depress it.   Sorry for all these simple questions but I am trying to learn my way around the electrified world.  Any help is greatly appreciated and thanks in advance.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I am a newbie/novice when it comes to guitar amps and I have some >questions (possibly stupid) about all the controls on my Fender Blues >Delux.  I know what the simple controls of volume, treble and bass do >but in addition to these I have a Drive, Middle, Master, Reverb and >Presence control.  Also I have two buttons labeled DriveSelect and >Bright.   >Question 1.  When I push in the DriveSelect control I can no longer >use my volume control and I need to turn up the Drive control and use >the Master control as my volume control.  I do hear a difference in >sound but what exactly is going on here?  Why do I want to do this and >what am I supposed to be hearing?  Is there a "correct way" of >adjusting these controls? >Question 2.  What are the Middle and Presence controls supposed to do? >Should they only have an effect when I depress the DriveSelect button? >Question 3.  What exactly is Reverb?  Am I supposed to hear a sort of >echoing effect in the background?  Should it only have an effect when >I depress the DriveSelect button? >Question 4.  What in the world is this Bright button?  I don’t notice >any difference when I depress it.   >Sorry for all these simple questions but I am trying to learn my way >around the electrified world.  Any help is greatly appreciated and >thanks in advance.

Michael, Let’s see if I can help ya out here.   The "master" volume controls your clean channel, and the "volume" controls your dirty channel.   Only one works at a time depending on what channel you are using.  As for a correct way, just set them to how loud you want each channel to be. Middle controls how much mid-range frequency is in your signal.  (it’s called "mid" because it’s in the middle of low (bass) and high (treble.)   Presence conrols how much brightness, sizzle or added high end to your sound.  Both of these controls on the Deluxe work for both channels, so it does’nt matter what channel you have it set to. That echo you are hearing is reverb.  It also works on both channels, and you can set it to however you like the sound. There is no wrong or right setting. Bright also works on both channels, and is like an extra treble boost.  You will notice more of a difference the louder the amp is turned up.   If you need some more help, just e mail me, and I will be glad to help ya out. Kevin

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I am a newbie/novice when it comes to guitar amps and I have some >questions (possibly stupid) about all the controls on my Fender Blues >Delux.  I know what the simple controls of volume, treble and bass do >but in addition to these I have a Drive, Middle, Master, Reverb and >Presence control.  Also I have two buttons labeled DriveSelect and >Bright.   >Question 1.  When I push in the DriveSelect control I can no longer >use my volume control and I need to turn up the Drive control and use >the Master control as my volume control.  I do hear a difference in >sound but what exactly is going on here?  Why do I want to do this and >what am I supposed to be hearing?  Is there a "correct way" of >adjusting these controls? >Question 2.  What are the Middle and Presence controls supposed to do? >Should they only have an effect when I depress the DriveSelect button? >Question 3.  What exactly is Reverb?  Am I supposed to hear a sort of >echoing effect in the background?  Should it only have an effect when >I depress the DriveSelect button? >Question 4.  What in the world is this Bright button?  I don’t notice >any difference when I depress it.   >Sorry for all these simple questions but I am trying to learn my way >around the electrified world.  Any help is greatly appreciated and >thanks in advance. >Michael, >Let’s see if I can help ya out here.   >The "master" volume controls your clean channel, and the "volume" controls >your dirty channel.   Only one works at a time depending on what channel you >are using.  As for a correct way, just set them to how loud you want each >channel to be.

Actually, it is the other way around.   On this amp, the channels are switched either by the footswitch or the drive select button on the panel.  When the clean channel is selected, the square red pilot light on the panel will be off.  In this mode, the *volume* knob controls the volume. When the amp  is switched to the drive channel, the square red pilot will be lit.  In this mode, both the *drive* and the *master* knob control the volume.  This engages an extra preamp stage which will *overdrive* the power amp stage and gives your amp a warmer, more distorted tone.  The drive knob controls how much the power amp is overdriven and the master knob acts like a throttle on the amp. >Middle controls how much mid-range frequency is in your signal.  (it’s called >"mid" because it’s in the middle of low (bass) and high (treble.)   Presence >conrols how much brightness, sizzle or added high end to your sound.  Both of >these controls on the Deluxe work for both channels, so it does’nt matter what >channel you have it set to. >That echo you are hearing is reverb.  It also works on both channels, and you >can set it to however you like the sound. There is no wrong or right setting. >Bright also works on both channels, and is like an extra treble boost.  You >will notice more of a difference the louder the amp is turned up.   >If you need some more help, just e mail me, and I will be glad to help ya out. >Kevin

– PJ O’Leary

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>The "master" volume controls your clean channel, and the "volume" controls >your dirty channel.   Only one works at a time depending on what channel you >are using.  As for a correct way, just set them to how loud you want each >channel to be.

        On the contrary: master and drive knobs control volume level         and dirtyness on the _drive_ channel, whereas volume affects         the clean channel only. If you want the drive channel to be         cleaner, turn your master knob closer to 12 and drive near 1;         if you, on the other hand, would like to have more overdrive or         distortion put master down and drive up. —         Kimmo Iltanen

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